The visit to the Church of the Confraternity of San Francesco, with its precious cycle of Gothic frescoes, is the opportunity for a loop-shaped walk in the area of Santa Vittoria d'Alba, a village that overlooks the Tanaro plain and the Langhe. Let's dedicate half a day to wander among the vineyards and orchards, with our favourite means of transport: by bike, the itinerary can be a bit longer and articulated; on foot, we limit the walk to the beautiful country road of the ridge on Bric Rotondo, for an overall view of the opposite wine lands of Langhe and Roero, separated by the River Tanaro divides. A curiosity: almost every junction is marked by a country chapel or votive shrine, as well as by the S4 trail and Roero Bike Tour signpost. It is almost impossible to go the wrong way!

THE ROUTE 

From the hamlet of Borgo di Santa Vittoria d'Alba, we immediately go uphill towards Villa, on foot using the stairs (S4 trail signpost), or following the Roero Bike Tour signpost, if on a bike. The uphill section is short, and leads to the top of the hill where we can already catch a glimpse of the castle tower, result of a complex settlement. For its strategic position over the River Tanaro, not distant from the Roman town of Pollentia, it is very possible that the place was already fortified in ancient times. In the 13^th century, the battles between Asti and Alba that fought over the place led to more destruction than testimonies. The castle was then rebuilt by the Visconti family and also belonged to Carlo Alberto di Savoia and is now a hotel.

• We now turn our attention to the understated church of the Confraternity of San Francesco. Under the low coffered ceiling, that separates the nave from the tribune, a cycle of works of an anonymous fresco artist, known by the name of Maestro di Santa Vittoria 

The view from the ridge on which the town stands says a lot about the territory. At the foot of the steep rampart, on the plain, the unrelenting humming that rises from the expanse of white industrial buildings and the roads of the valley floor contrasts with the peace enjoyed by this town.  What we see is the beating and productive heart of Alba; we are right above the hamlet of Cinzano. The buildings that surround a lovely neo-Gothic church -Santa Paola - are the factories of the Cinzano Company - inventors of vermouth - active in the possessions of the Savoia in Santa Vittoria from the 1880s. Beyond the plain is the Langhe of Barolo, with the villages of Roddi, Verduno and La Morra in the background.

We cross the entire central spine of the village and take the road for Valentino, a peaceful paved country road among the vineyards. For those who go on foot and are content with a walk of a few hours, the first junction to the right takes to the ridge and the S4 trail signposts that climb to the farmhouses of Gottino. 

By bike, on the other hand, we cycle easily as far as the small country church of Valentino, beyond which there is a short but steep section, on the Serre road, along a ridge with vineyards and hazelnut groves on both sides. Another chapel and we take Sant'Ignazio road for Casà, always remaining on high ridges, and meeting a few farmhouses along the way. The view of the neo-Gothic Church of San Grato informs us that the downhill stretch to the valley bottom of the rio of Casale is beginning, from which we rise steeply (but for less than 500 m) on a dirt road as far as Gottino. The route that continues rewards our effort with beautiful views of the royal castle and the Savoy complex of Pollenzo which is now the University of Gastronomic Sciences.  

From the hamlet of Case Nuove, a votive shrine among the roses indicates the start of a dirt road that extends along the ridge, right in front of Santa Vittoria, of which we can finally appreciate the turreted profile, recognisable from most of Langhe. We close the loop pedalling (or walking) among the vineyards that from Bric Rotondo slope down to the valley. 

Confraternity of San Francesco

Both the building, initially used for other purposes (perhaps a barn) and the Confratria Sancti Spiritus - the oldest confraternity documented in the diocese of Alba - already existed in the 13th century. Later, at the end of the 15th century, the brethern transform what was only a meeting place into a church, and the precious cycle of frescoes begun between the 1490s and completed in the 1530s date to this period. The cycle, despite the many gaps, extends over 34 metres of the three walls of the only nave. The theme, subdivided into 19 panels, is the passion of Jesus, a subject dear to the confraternity, who was protagonist of the rites of Holy Week. The Gospel passage - easy to read thanks to the timely comment activated by the app Chiese a Porte Aperte - is embellished in each panel by the crowds of figures - soldiers, apostles, priests, pious women – dressed in a courteous manner in use in the 15th century.

The Confraternity of San Francesco in Santa Vittoria d'Alba will open its doors thanks to the app Chiese a Porte Aperte. Chiese a porte aperte is a system of automated opening and narration of the churches in Piedmont and Valle d'Aosta. Download the App Chiese a porte aperte. For info:  www.cittaecattedrali.it.