From Treiso, in the heart of the Langa of Barbaresco, the stage takes us to San Bovo di Castino, observing the change in landscape which, from vineyards as far as the eye can see, leaves room to woods, hazelnut groves and rock formations. These are hills steeped in history, starting as far back as the Romans up to the Partisans during the Civil War, but they also preserve the memory of hard work and poverty told by Beppe Fenoglio, captured forever in the pages of his best-known novels.

We exit the village in the direction of Alba to take, immediately at the first hairpin bend to the left, the junction for San Rocco seno d’Elvio and proceed on a paved road as far as Cascina Alberta. A little further on, past the farmhouse, at the first hairpin bend on the right we take the dirt access road to the left, to alternate between vineyards and hazelnut groves close to the most terrifying and deep ravine of the Langhe, the spectacular Rocca dei Sette Fratelli. Legend has it that the seven wicked men cursed God during a religious festival, despite the pleas of their pious sister: the land opened up swallowing them up, but leaving the sister saved on the ridge between the two ravines. Legend aside, the place is magnificent both for the breathtaking panorama and for the possibility of observing the layers of the hill that in section looks just like a gigantic Sacher Torte with layers of limestone, clay, marl, sand and sandstone: all the uniqueness of the Langhe at a glance. Our unpaved road then re-joins the strip of land between the two ravines (that which saved the sister of the legend), in Canta, where we cross the provincial road to take, immediately after the Partisan statue and the first house, the road uphill on the right which takes high up on the watershed, above the provincial road. Here, the Langa of Wine gradually gives way to that of the Hazelnut and the hills become harsher and wilder. The walk continues on the ridge for a couple of kilometres to descend on the provincial road and, passed the few houses on a paved road, continues to the nearby junction of Bossania, from where immediately to the right it resumes the unpaved road of the ridge. The panorama is superb and allows to truly identify with the visionary descriptions of Fenoglio and his partisans. We descend once again to the small hamlet of Cappelletto where, having passed the crossroad for Trezzo Tinella, we take the first road and, immediately after, to the right, the slightly uphill unpaved road which makes a large bend to reach the municipal road at the height of a house next to a votive pillar and, from the other side of the paved road, a wooden house. From here, to the right, the trail immediately takes off again, descending gently between the hazelnut groves and, making a wide arch first downhill and then uphill, it finally reaches the ancient village of Riondino, excellent example of fortified farmhouse, today a lovely charming relais. We are now in the heart of Fenoglio’s Langa, the setting of his best novels and where everything speaks of a recent past (just 50-70 years ago), made of misery and fratricidal war. From the Rondino turn right, always on unpaved road, to climb into the wood (very well marked on the trees) and reach the peak where the numerous beehives tell us just how good the honey of Langhe is. Here, keep to the right on an easy descent to reach the paved road and follow it to the right for approximately 1 km, then to the left again on unpaved ground, increasingly uphill, to reach the mythical Farmhouse of the Langa, precisely the one where the Partisan Johnny (the hero of the homonymous novel of Fenoglio on the civil war) passed the terrible winter of 1944 in the company of the dog “la Lupa”. The trail descends briefly into the hazelnut grove (to give the right privacy to the farmhouse, which today has become another charming relais) to climb back up, immediately passed the house, into the nearby car park and then continue on the ridge of the wood towards Boscasso and Pavaglione. At the next junction both trails take to the village of Pavaglione, but our road passes in that of the right to descend from above, between donkeys and goats, on the theatre village of “La Malora” of Agostino, the poor servant who in vain will try to help his family marked by an ineluctable destiny and infinitely stronger than his arms. At the Pavaglione, the farmhouse of Agostino and Tobia is now a cultural centre where exhibitions and conferences are held, as well as literary readings and days dedicated to Beppe Fenoglio. Beyond the village, on the left, the trail resumes the ridge to travel among the trees as far as the small cemetery of San Bovo, before descending on a paved road and turning left, to reach this extreme and romantic hamlet of Castino, immersed in woods. San Bovo is the preferred walk of the people of Alba, who know that at the end they will also find a friendly house with an osteria, bed and bar, as well as an equestrian tour company to go galloping in the Belbo Valley. Its steep woods hide secrets of mushrooms and truffles that hunters jealously protect in secret and encrypted notebooks as perhaps only the “Libro del Comando” of the legendary Masche (the prankster spirits of the woods of Langhe) could have been.

Treiso: Bottega dei Grandi Vini – Wine Shop, Rock formations of the Seven Brothers – Trezzo Tinella: Monument to the Woman of Langa, Historic village of Riondino, Historic-literary hamlet of Pavaglione – Castino: Cascina Pavaglione – Places of Beppe Fenoglio

Itinerary code: BTB
Recommended period: Apr - Nov
Access by public transport: Yes
Classification: Medium and low mountain provincial
Provinces crossed: Langhe Monferrato e Roero