GTL - Grande Traversata delle Langhe - Stage 12: Benevello

Highlights and tour details

Route in the heart of the Langa of Fenoglio, that leads to Pavaglione, theatre of one of the best-known novels of the writer from Alba, an opportunity to join nature and literature.

The position of Benevello is not only historically strategic, perched as it is guarding the pass between the Belbo Valley and the Tanaro Valley, in the direction of Alba, but also geographically happy. From the top of its 670 metres and with the help of the currents between Belbo and the Berria torrent, it is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most ventilated areas of Langhe. And, if the wind is one of the most recurrent Fenoglian memories, in this particularly complex corner of territory in which the lands of Trezzo, Castino and Borgomale (all much more distant, Castino even on the opposite hill) push themselves into a wedge, much of the literary geography of the great writer from Alba unfolds.

The most romantic place, however, is outside the village towards Bossolasco, on a hillock elevated from the road: the Church of Madonna di Langa is one of the classical places chosen by the people of Alba for an intimate country wedding. The small church rises in the place of an ancient pieve which no longer exists: legend has it that Francis of Assisi stopped to pray here, during his journey through the Langhe, from Liguria to France in the 13^th century. Many memories of this journey remain, such as the pebbles of Pollicino, from the convent of Cortemilia to the oratory of Saliceto, from Alba to Benevello.

From Benevello, follow the provincial road 230 in the direction of Montemarino (already hamlet of Borgomale), go beyond it and shortly after take a lane to the right in the direction of San Bovo. Continue on the ridge of the wood towards Boscasso and Pavaglione. At the next junction both trails lead to the village of Pavaglione, but our path passes to the right to descend from above between donkeys and goats on to the village of “La Malora” of Agostino, the poor servant who in vain will try to help his family marked by an inevitable destiny that is infinitely stronger than his arms.

The Pavaglione is the universal symbol of La Malora, the hunger and the disgrace which afflicted the sharecroppers of the Langhe, until after the Second World War: the homonymous novel with which Fenoglio debuts, still indebted to a certain realism, opens with “It rained on all of Langhe and up there in San Benedetto my father was getting his first water underground”. One of the rawest and most imaginative incipits of 20th century literature. It is Agostino “who sacrifices himself for everyone” to bear the cross of all the servants sold at the market of arms, condemned to a life of hardship and toil without any reasonable hope for a better future. The epilogue of the mother kneeling in prayer against a vine pole ends the tragedy in a circle of death: “Don’t call me before I have closed the eyes of my poor son Emilio. Then I will be happy if you call me, if you are happy. So take into account what I have done for love and be merciful with me for what I have had to do. And all of us who will be up there let us keep our hand on Agostino’s head, who is good and has sacrificed himself for his family and will be alone in the world”.

From here you can reunite the Langa del Vino (Wine Langa) with the Bar to Bar route.

Attractions

The Routes of Fenoglio Benevello : Parish Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, Church of Madonna di Langa .

Other information

Source: Unione Montana Alta Langa
Itinerary code: GTL
Recommended period: Apr - Nov
Access by public transport: Yes
Classification: Medium and low mountain provincial
Provinces crossed: Langhe Monferrato e Roero

Departure, arrival and municipalities crossed

Departure

Strada Comunale di Viale Langhe
Benevello
12050 Benevello (CN)
Cuneo

see on map

Arrival

Località San Bovo
Pavaglione
12050 Castino (CN)
Cuneo

see on map

Links

http://www.langheroero.it/

Stages

Please note that the routes may include some sections where there is traffic.

The information contained in the pathways is not binding on the authors and verifiers of the pathways.

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Hiking