Crest route in the heart of the Upper Langa, among stone houses and castles telling centuries-old stories.

The hamlet of Bergolo practically coincides with the entire village and, with less than 70 residents, it is one of the smallest villages of Langhe, also in terms of surface area. Always historically linked to the nearby Cortemilia, from where the Marquises exerted their power also over all neighbouring fiefs, it lost the castle in the late Middle Ages. It does preserve an overall architectural unity, represented above all by the continuity of building materials, which are here essentially formed by Langa stone. For this reason, it has always been called the “Stone Village”.

From the centre of the village, take the road that leads to the campsite and continues flat on a paved road that detaches itself to the right, close to the access to the bungalows and proceed on flat ground to a small isolated villa. Keep on the ridge of the hill and, close to a votive aedicule, climb right as far as Bric Massimino, dominated by an isolated farmhouse. The crest is very narrow and allows to enjoy a view on both sides, the gentler one towards the Bormida and the steeper one towards the Uzzone.

From this point, the road becomes gravel and enters, flat, a lovely chestnut wood. Continue right at a pair of junctions and reach the saddle located above the houses of Levice, a village that we can admire from above. A short deviation from the itinerary on the dirt road leads in a hundred or so metres to the ruined tower of the village, first early medieval settlement, then organised lower down on the current provincial road, where, in fact, Levice stands today.

Wanting to make a major diversion, which is not signposted, you can descend into the village. The closed village of Levice is certainly worth a visit, preserving a particular chessboard structure arranged on a slope, which is very rare in Langhe (perhaps something similar exists only in La Morra). The square with the parish church of Sant’Antonio Abate, embellished by a lovely Romanesque bell tower, is completed by the 17th century Palazzotto degli Scarampi, which gives it a certain importance. The charm of the village is grasped in the cobblestones “a sternia”, to facilitate the grip of the donkey and horse hooves, and through vaults and shaded passages that connect the steep slopes of the village.

Continuing, instead, along the crest route, after a few metres on paved road turn a sharp left and climb for a section of hard dirt track between two curtains of bushes. Leave aside the roads that descend to the right and left to follow the wide ridge that goes slightly uphill. You will soon reach a crossroads: go passed it and take the paved road, with an adjacent rest area, which, slightly uphill takes to the scenic Pian della Croce. Always on the ridge, but on the now gravel road, continue climbing towards the hilltop. Descend for a brief section and, keeping on the crest, you quickly reach the paved road on the saddle placed on the slopes of Bricco delle Forche. Climb for a few metres, then, close to an aqueduct depot, descend right, to the fork a few metres from the Cascina Coste, isolated among croplands and conifer reforestation. Abandon the paved road to climb left, on a dirt track, and proceed on flat ground between croplands, on a not very evident trail, to reach a villa, which you skirt to reach, a few metres later, a paved road you need to follow proceeding right. 

Descend to the wide provincial road. Pass the green area and continue on, always keeping on the ridge, as far as the hamlet of Serra. At the next junction, follow the signs for the castle, to the right, quickly reaching the top of the hill. The village of Prunetto offers a unique view, with its magnificent castle, built by the Marquises Del Carretto, that fills our eyes and dominates the hill below. The castle and the adjacent church (Romanesque and dedicated originally to San Lorenzo, today Shrine del Carmine) are one of the most beautiful monumental complexes in the Langhe. The Shrine, enlarged several times over the centuries since its foundation attested in the apse around the 12^th century, preserves some of the oldest frescoes of the valley as well as a cycle by Segurano Cigna, master of the 15^th century neo-gothic Monregalese School. The castle stands right  on the edge of the fortress, which was probably involved in a collapse that swallowed up part of the oldest part of the settlement, and preserves intact the appearance of a grim medieval manor.

It is necessary to proceed to the start of the wall that skirts the entrance arch called “la battagliera” and descend to the left, on the steep via Castello, to cross the oldest village of the municipality. In a short time, you return to the provincial road, turn right and continue as far as the parish church.

Bergolo, the City of Stone : Church of San Sebastiano . Levice : Church of San Rocco . Prunetto : Castle of Prunetto , Shrine of Madonna del Carmine .

Source: Unione Montana Alta Langa
Itinerary code: GTL
Recommended period: Apr - Nov
Access by public transport: Yes
Classification: Medium and low mountain provincial
Provinces crossed: Langhe Monferrato e Roero