Ridge route which starts from Castino, in the heart of Upper Langa, to arrive in Santo Stefano Belbo, where everything speaks of Pavese, who was born here and wrote much about these hills. A not overly demanding route, enjoying the same views which the great writer loved to observe.

From the centre of Castino, follow Via XX Settembre in the direction of Cossano Belbo and the hamlet of Scorrone, full of Pavesian memories; after about 600 metres, a little after the cemetery, climb to the right on a steep paved road, following the signs “San Salvario”, until you touch the ancient votive aedicule. At the nearby crossroads, continue straight on, on a flat gravel road. Passed a lovely farmhouse, the route descends to touch a paved road close to the houses of Castello. This name, like the following village (namely Castello and Imperatore) recall a Roman presence, evidenced by several finds which make one think that this road already existed and was used in the Imperial Age. From here, we proceed to the left for a few metres and immediately the roads starts to rise again. At the fork in the road, climb to the right, on a gravel road, following the signs for Vesime. Through a lovely chestnut wood, the route continues almost flat until we descend to a crossroads close to Cascina Imperatore; stay on the ridge, climbing with difficulty on a dirt track for a short stretch until you come to a low stone wall.

Continuing to the left, you reach the top of the crest, after which the very scenic route enters a grove of oaks and pines, to descend again to a small hill and to and asphalt road (signs strada Cadacanelli). The watershed between Belbo and Bormida becomes particularly wide and picturesque. Further on, when the crest will take us to the hill of Gaminella, and then, into the middle of the literary territory of Pavese, the geography will become complicated with gorges and folds, forests and valleys between two hills that confuse the simple watershed travelled to this point.

Let us enjoy the scenery that takes us to the wildest Langhe, in which the isolated houses become rare and the villages roll up on a higher spur of the hill, closed inside stonewalls and grim fortresses. All around, fragrant woods of chestnuts and lime trees, beech and elm trees, with the willows along the valleys between two hills and the oak trees on the peaks as legend has it, placed up there to await the lightning bolts that the Gods, from Jupiter onwards, have always hurled at it to create the magic of the white truffle.

The route goes uphill on this last stretch to the next saddle (sign Strada Ghirardi) where, among the various possibilities, you can climb to the centre with gentle progression. Passed a small rest area no longer in use and a stretch of extensive croplands, after approximately 300 meters (sign Strada Madovito), take the paved road uphill to our right which allows to quickly reach the wide ridge. Proceed among the croplands until you reach close to the vine-covered hill on which Cascina Langa Soprana stands out.

At the first junction, descend to the right and after 100 m, follow the sign for Santo Stefano Belbo to the left. This section, characterised by the excellent view of the Bormida Valley, which opens up to our right, allows to reach a crossroads, always on the crest. At this point, abandon the paved road to take the lovely dirt track at the centre. Between ancient oaks, this takes to the large vine-covered amphitheatre above Cascina Borgna, open onto the Bormida Valley. Leave the first two forks in the road to the left that enter the wood, to climb, after a few metres, between wood and vineyard. A section of the trail with a good surface takes, with a moderate climb, to a small clearing on the top of the hill. It is necessary to take the trail that descends to the left, travelling it until you reach a large saddle and to the paved road. Follow it to the left for a very scenic section, with an inconspicuous climb, heading for the repeater on Bric Bertrani. Shortly before the wall descend to the left on a white road to reach, on a hill, Cascina Ca’ Nuova. There you will find the monument built to remember those killed in the war of Falchetto, where a group of partisans were gunned down against a wall. The place is particularly dear to the locals who get together every 25 April, anniversary of the Liberation, for a spontaneous celebration to remember the event.

Following the sign for Rocchea, take the flat road to the right that crosses sections of wood and steep vineyards that descend to the valley of Rocchea, to reach the hamlet of Monti. Immediately after the houses, the road goes left, following the sign Torre; having reached a first junction (sign Casotto) keep on the road half way up the hill aiming at the small Church of Santa Libera and, passed the hamlet, you soon arrive to the next crossroads.

Santa Libera was the protagonist of a major crisis in 1946 that almost pushed the Country to the edge of civil war. A group of partisans from Asti, disappointed by the politics of 1945 and, above all, by the amnesty sought by Togliatti in 1946, decided to take up weapons and backpacks again and climb the Langhe to protest against the state of affairs. With De Gasperi engaged in Paris to define the peace clauses and half of the Country occupied by the Anglo-Americans, the risk of a drift was imminent. Thanks to the good offices of vice-president Nenni and of numerous partisan leaders, a peaceful treaty was signed when the army was already deployed and thousand hotbeds of revolt were re (lit) on the Alps and Apennines. After eight days, without firing a shot, the partisans returned to Asti (among flowers, applauses and triumphs in the square) and the Second World War could be considered truly over.

From Santa Libera descend towards Santo Stefano Belbo now in view taking the steep road to the right. After having admired the imposing remains of the medieval tower, today chipped in an unreal perspective of suspended gravity, a few bends allow to arrive to the houses of the historic centre. Entered via Marconi, immediately on your left is the lively Piazza Umberto I. Continue on, walking among the ancient houses in the cool of a pleasant shade to the Cesare Pavese Research Centre, with the lovely Church of Santi Giacomo and Cristoforo nearby in a square that often welcomes plays dedicated to the writer. Continuing on the road for Canelli is the writer’s birthplace, while, if you enter the square, from here your gaze is filled with the view of Moncucco hill, streaked with dry walls and vineyards. The cemetery is a short distance away and since 2002, it has been home to the remains of Cesare Pavese, one of the greatest Italian writers and poets, the last of the many returns he narrates so well.

Santo Stefano Belbo : Cesare Pavese Research Centre and Foundation 

Source: Unione Montana Alta Langa
Itinerary code: GTL
Recommended period: Apr - Nov
Access by public transport: Yes
Classification: Medium and low mountain provincial
Provinces crossed: Langhe Monferrato e Roero