The stage winds again on the trails of Alta Langa, and coincides with the Grande Traversata delle Langhe, offering numerous possible detours to visit these highlands. The route offers unique views thanks to the stretches on the ridge, lapping the Nature Reserve of the Springs of Belbo, crossing the villages which speak of Fenoglio and summit concentrics, in which each stone has a story to tell.

Niella Belbo preserves a medieval tower, in addition to several fine frescoes of the 15th century in the parish church and the romantic Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Monti, one of the many peaks that dot the Belbo Valley. In front of us, to the north, the large town of Bossolasco (which we will reach after a steep descent in Belbo on the village of San Benedetto, the only village of the valley floor), while to the west the valley finally opens towards the peak of Mombarcaro (896 m) and on the plateau of the Springs of Belbo, unique nature reserve in the Langhe. We go beyond the town in the direction of San Benedetto and proceed on a paved road to the junction marked to the right, then descend, to continue on unpaved ground to the junction to the left that descends into the valley between two hills and, beyond the ford, climbs back into the wood to take the cart track on flat ground to the left. We enter the paved municipal road to the right for the village of Sant’Anna, from where to the left we take the long lane along the boundary wall of the first farmhouse, which descends sharply into the subsequent valley between two hills. We head uphill a hundred metres to continue on flat ground as far as the hamlet of Scaroni, from where we take the paved road back towards this quintessential Fenoglio village. Good signage retraces all the places and events narrated by Fenoglio in his tales and short novel “Un Giorno di Fuoco”. Here comes Placido’s private property, the square where the car skidded going back and forth between Gorzegno, the Teacher’s house, the cemetery.. everything here talks about the writer and much in Fenoglio tells us about San Benedetto. Then we can admire the remains of the Benedictine Abbey with the access arch to the fortified village and the pleasant descent to the river, between trail and staircase. Here the junctions of Mimberghe, Cadilù and Lunetta preserve the echoes of its stories (of all “Pioggia e la Sposa”) and the three villages are worth an unhurried visit. We go past Belbo over the cart bridge and take the first road to the left that climbs sharply, but paved, on the steepest side of the valley: the panorama opens and allows to capture the volume of the Benedictine village in all its medieval forms. Having reached the peak, the watershed offers the view of the Tanaro Valley in the distance, surrounded by the Maritime Alps and the romantic tower of Murazzano. We take the state road on the right to then immediately take the junction on the left for the Safari Park and, shortly after, passed the ridge, on the right we find our crest path of grass and pebbles that runs along the ridge of Bossola Pass. The path, majestic for the panorama and altitude, proceeds first on flat ground and then descends sharply to the pass, where it reconnects with the state road for the section of the crossroads and immediately resumes to the left, continuing on the crest in the wood (pay attention to the subsequent three-way junction: go straight remaining on the crest), as far as the industrial plant of Basic2. We leave the factory to our left and cross the paved courtyard to continue as far as the Church of San Rocco, from where we will climb again on the watershed to finally reach Bossolasco (at the end of the road turn left and take the main street at the height of the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli, from where we practically enter the village) from above. Bossolasco is the town of painters (the Group of Six) and their historic signs. Fenoglio, like half of Alba, came here on his summer holidays, while in winter – incredibly – it was the only ski resort in Langhe! The village is romantic with roses and houses that have been tastefully renovated: the ancient Palazzo Balestrino talks of Ligurian wood of the Marquises of Carretto, while the parish church, significantly modified, . perhaps deserved greater attention. On the way out, towards Serrvalle and Alba a stop at the celebrated Fontana Azzura is a must before, shortly after, leaving the state road and taking the junction to the left. The route descends on an unpaved road, first gently among the fields and then plunges into the wood as far as the valley between two hills and climbs back up to the sun towards the lovely country Chapel of San Lorenzo. Here, turn right and then immediately left, on a paved road, in Pratonoero, to climb back up towards Serravalle Langhe, going right to the first unpaved junction, again to the right after a pair of kilometres on paved road and, finally, uphill on the state road to the entrance of the village. Serravalle Langhe, as the name says, blocks the passage to the road of the crest (the state road of the Langhe, heir perhaps of that Via Magistra Langarum which the Romans opened), but lost the medieval castle in the 16th century. In the village remains the lovely building, today the town hall, and, above all, the ancient Oratory of San Michele (12th century, to note the rose window of sandstone and the 15th century frescoes). Continue from the square of the Town hall along via Baudana, and having reached the bottom, keep to the left (via Monte Vacca) and continue along the paved road downhill (via Braia), as far as the junction to the right, on grass, which will bring us (at every junction keep to the right as far as the rio) to the steepest descents on the valleys between two hills: that of the rio Inferno (nomen omen) which runs placidly between sandstone walls, but at the bottom of a deep muddy ravine to travel with great care. The climb up to the provincial road in front of the Chapel of San Lorenzo of Roddino, though less steep, wider and less muddy, is very challenging. Having reached the provincial road, we turn left and travel the ridge that now appears as a natural balcony overlooking the most famous vineyards in Italy, to reach the small village, true lookout on the Langa of Barolo.

Niella Belbo: Arch and Medieval Tower of the French, Medieval Tower, Big Bench by Chris Bangle, Sanctuary of Madonna dei Monti – San Benedetto Belbo: Urban Walls, Benedictine Monastery, Places of Beppe Fenoglio – Bossolasco, the village of roses: Church of Madonna della Mellea – Serravalle Langhe: Church of San Michele, Church of Santa Maria Vergine Assunta, Oratory of San Michele Arcangelo, Marquis Palace – Roddino: Country Chapel of Santa Margherita, Country Chapel of San Lorenzo Martire.

Itinerary code: BTB
Recommended period: Apr - Nov
Access by public transport: Yes
Classification: Medium and low mountain provincial
Provinces crossed: Langhe Monferrato e Roero